Yes, there really is a Rosa's Cantina in El Paso. On Doniphan Drive, just about on the Mexico/US border. I understand that although it looks a little sketchy from the outside, inside it's a place with good food and good service, and usually half a dozen border patrol officers having lunch.
Speaking of border patrol, let's get that out of the way right now.
El Paso is the largest border town in the state of Texas. The Secure Fence Act of 2006 allowed for 700 miles of double-reinforced fence to be built on the border across Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California. It's off-putting in some ways, especially since then-President George W. Bush cited it as an important step in immigration reform. What the fence is supposed to do is cut down on illegal drug trafficking through El Paso. No word on its success yet. Although, years ago, my sister hit a drug dealer making a run for it on the Border Highway. (OK, she hit just his foot.) Anyway, this was before the fence was built, so maybe the fence has achieved something.
The fence is not necessarily attractive, but there is an aesthetic here that defies ready description. This is a place where first world butts up against third world, and seeing that other world from behind chain link is disconcerting.
And now for Juarez. Many of us hear "Juarez" and hear "murders" right after it. As of October 31, there have been 2,678 murders in Cuidad Juarez this year. (Tim Johnson posted on mcclatchydc.com Nov. 1) The same year that the U.S. enacted The Secure Fence Act, Mexican President Felipe Calderon declared a war on the drug cartels and unleashed the Mexican army. In 2007, Juarez had about 300 murders. the number has escalated every year since. Conversely, according to an October 20 post on El Paso ABC affiliate station KVIA's Web site, there have been exactly 2 murders in El Paso in 2010. As in most cases, suffering reputation by association is almost inevitable, inaccurate and unfair.
That's not to say that El Paso is some kind of suburban, white bread Utopia where bluebirds sit on your shoulder while small rodents gather acorns for your basket. No. El Paso is incredibly vibrant. On Saturday, we cruised the mural tour through the city, ending up in Lincoln Park, a green space that hides under a tangle of highway overpasses referred to as the spaghetti bowl by residents. Every single concrete support has been painted. Check it out. Next - the last leg.
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