I had been to the River Walk a few years back during a Christmas or Thanksgiving holiday with sisters and brothers-in-law and extended families.A whole pack of us got on one of the boats that cruise the waterways with a guide who rattled off all sorts of information and statistics and anecdotes. I did what I usually did at the time - absorbed very little and thought about the leftovers waiting in the frige. So I when I reached the walkway, I had a modicum of knowledge to draw upon besides - "oh, this looks kind of familiar."
According to the website thesanantonioriverwalk.com, the San Antonio River Walk is the number one tourist attraction in Texas. Built as a flood control measure, it is essentially a canal system that winds through the city. The first construction of the waterway started in the 1920s, and the latest extension (to the San Antonio Museum of Art) was completed in 2009. My goal was to reach that museum, even though it was a little more than 1.5 miles one way. On the way there (or on the way back) I planned to stop at the Southwest School of Art and Craft to explore their gift shop and gallery. It was a good plan.
What really happened: I walked a quarter mile in the wrong direction, got turned back around in the right direction, asked directions again when my cute sundress became soaked through with girlsweat and I had decided to stop at the school first, and was sure I should have been there by now, then exited the River Walk too soon and had to consult the map on my i-phone to find the school, and when I reached the gallery I was told that the show had been taken down the day before and gosh, they were so sorry. So I found my way to the original campus and the little cafe and the gift shop. When in doubt, eat and spend money.
The Southwest School of Art and Craft resides in what was once a convent, established in 1851 when seven Catholic nuns arrived in San Antonio and founded the first school for girls in the city. Buildings are elegant two-stories constructed of native limestone. The website notes that as the campus expanded, architecture was supervised by Francois Giraud, I assume to keep the look uniform. The site is included on the National Register of Historic Places.
By the time I walked in, I was desperate for only two things - air conditioning and a bathroom. Strolling along a canal that is one story below street level, I experienced little breeze. Did I mention is was about 95 with 85 percent humidity? (Not hyperbole.) Anything resembling a good hair day was in the distant past. And my dress was literally soaked through in some unbecoming places. Smile and walk fast.
I did order lunch, a turkey melt with a salad that was summarily disappointing. However, the gift shop was not. I spent at least an hour examining tiles, vases, earrings, charms, cards, coin purses, shoulder bags, ceramics, silk scarves, and more stuff I can't even remember. Considering my bank balance and my role in fiscal responsibility, I decided to explore the outer campus.
I'd like to tell you that I immersed myself in the history of the place, took a docent-led tour (they do have docents) asked lots of questions and absorbed all the information offered. But I did not. I was exhausted and still hot and dehydrated and worst of all, still hungry. So I sat down on a lovely stone bench (with a plaque attached stating just who donated the thing, or the money for the thing - more about ownership tags later) and stared at a fountain in the courtyard and the cat snoozing against the wall. The fountain was a stone and wrought iron trickling affair with much greenery surrounding it. Both the cat and I felt little compunction to move, so we didn't. After about half an hour, I asked directions once again to find my way back to the River Walk and returned the way I had come.
One of the best things about the River Walk to me is not the restaurants and bars - I don't drink and couldn't care less about mediocre bar food. I didn't have money to spend at the boutiques, either, although there were many and they clearly prospered. No, the best thing about the walk to me was the nice guys in bright yellow vests who, every time I got turned around, were available to point me in the right direction. I swear that they leaped from behind stone planters and bridge supports, or scooted out from under patio tables. Just as I turned around, there was a nice man (they were all men, funny enough) telling me where to go. Typically, I don't want any man telling me where to go. But in this case, it was appreciated. Especially if they were directing me to a place that had air conditioning. Maybe it was the sun dress and the movie star shades. No matter. They were immensely helpful. I found out later that the River Walk is actually a public city park, and helpers have been stationed there since 1957. Rangers were placed on the river before the walk was developed commercially because it was a dangerous place to be at night. Hence the development.
I left San Antonio the next day, headed for El Paso, Texas. I can just hear all of you saying "Oh, I'm so sorry ..." but I think you'll be surprised at what El Paso offered. More to come.
No comments:
Post a Comment